Seen a few of these Batman Slap pictures online recently with various captions. Here’ my quick Photoshop effort!
1 x Hi-res Batman Slap pic sourced from Google Images.
I adjusted the tone, contrast and colour of the downloaded slap pic then cut out the background and added my own gradient fill. Next I stuck a “Halftone” filter on the background layer with largish dots to match the existing pattern on the other elements. Finally I added 2 regular speech bubble shapes from the default custom shape selection, gave ’em a black stroke and slight shadow, tried to think of something clever and relevant to say in ’em and here ye go:
No idea why but I just wanted to do a photo composition where one element is totally out of place in another. A Gladiator in the Aviva stadium seemed appropriate!
A hi-res, pitch level shot of the Aviva stadium Dublin, bathed in sunshine. Sourced from Google Images.
A decent, full length pic of a Gladiator looking a little confused! Sourced from sxc.hu.
After cutting the Gladiator out of his background with the Pen tool, I spent quite a bit of time finding the best position and size for him in the Aviva photo so it looked like he was really there on the pitch. After finding his spot and tidying up his edges and hair with a brush & mask, I created his shadow by duplicating his layer, warping with the Transform tool and adding a Gaussian Blur then making the shadow layer slightly transparent to match the stadium roof shadow.
Next, I planted Mr Gladiator firmly on the ground by hand drawing in shadows under his feet with a soft black brush. Some more shadows next. Since I put him standing under the shadow of the stadium roof, I needed to add some roof shadows onto him directly so again, using the brush, I painted on shadows, matching the lines of the stadium shadow, then made them a bit transparent to look more natural.
Finally, I added a Photo Filter Adjustment layer, just on the Gladiator and used a sampled green color from the pitch just to match him into the color scheme a bit better.
My Beavis/Cornholio, T-shirt over the head, “TP for my bunghole” impersonation is legendary at this stage so I thought I’d create a jar of virtual “TP Cream” in Photoshop for the crack (pardon the pun). I started out with the following assets:
A decent head shot of the man himself “Beavis” from Google images,
I cut the original jar image below out of it’s background just so I could create my own jar reflections, shadows and background colour:
Next I used the Pen tool to draw the shape of a jar label and the star shape around Beavis’s head both of which I added an orange stroke effect to. I cut Beavis out of his background image and pasted him onto the label then used the Transform tool to get his size and perspective right’ish. I dragged in Beavis again and manoeuvred him on to the jar lid with the Transform tool again then set his layer to Overlay to make him fit in better.
Next I drew a path with the Pen tool that followed the shape of the label and added “TP For Your Bunghole” along it. I used the dreaded Comic Sans font but it seemed appropriate for this job!?
Finally, I added a bit of manual darkening over the right side of the added graphics using a very opaque and soft black brush, just to mirror the jar darkness on that side. I also used the colour replacement tool to make the cream inside the jar a little less pinky and more browny/orangey to match the colour scheme and topic!
Here’s the final effort:
PS – this cream is fictitious, I’m not selling any before you ask!
I spotted a photo of a crooked building on Facebook that looked like it had been through the Photoshop wringer but incredibly, it hadn’t. The shopping center below actually exists in Sopot, Poland!
So having been positive, the house was ‘liquified’ in Photoshop, then finding out it hadn’t been, I thought I’d try liquify a building or 2 of my own. The GPO sounded like a good idea! It was just a quickie using the Photoshop – Liquify filter then messing around with different sizes of the Smudge, Bloat & Pucker tools. Not nearly as impressive as the real thing though right!?
I love Firebirds and American Muscle cars in general. Maybe the universe will be good to me and I’ll be able to afford to own (and run) one some day! Some guy in Leitrim has a Firebird amazingly and I see/hear it pass by the odd time and drool. The Firebird is a version of the car model featured in ‘Knight Rider’.
Anyhow, for a bit of much needed Photoshop practice, I decided to edit a photo of a Pontiac Trans-Am Firebird into a photo of my dining table (no idea why the table!) and try make it look like it was really there instead of on some American highway.
Here’s what I started with, said pic of a Firebird on a highway sourced from Google (sue me):
And a pic of my dining room table top, taken at an angle to try to emulate the viewpoint in the Firebird pic above:
After careful cutout of the car with the Pen tool and placing it at the right point on the Table image as well as a bit of Perspective Lens Correcting of the table, I was able to make it look like it blended in a bit. Here are the steps I took to finish the composition off:
Duplicate the Car layer and set the new layer to Multiply blend mode to make it fit in better light wise, after all the original car pic was taken outdoors daytime and I’m putting it in an indoor, dusk shot,
Select the car layer and add a Photo Filter Adjustment layer with a colour sampled from the table. This helps the car fit in colour wise.
Duplicate the car layer again and completely darken it then use the Transform tool to squash it down to the rough shape of a car shadow underneath the original car layer. Remember to match the shadow direction with the light source coming from the windows at the back of the table,
Blur the car shadow layer until it looks about right then add a layer mask and tidy up with the brush tool,
Create a new layer and select a soft brush, black colour and paint in the shadows under the wheels. The previous shadow step leaves the car looking like it’s hovering off the table and painting in a small shadow under the wheels really brings it back down,
I had to cut out the windows too and lost a bit of the sun shield built into the windscreen but I was able to draw the missing bit back in, match the colour, add noise and blur it a bit to make it look like it was always there,
Reflections for objects like this are very tricky but I managed to get a slight bit of a reflection in my shiny table for the wheels using the Transform – Skew & Gradient/Mask Tools.
I then used the Burn (darken) tool to further darken some shaded bits and the Dodge (brighten) tool to make those beautiful chrome and gold strips really pop out,
Next, I duplicated the Table layer and blurred the new one then added a layer mask and gradient to blur behind the car but keep in front in focus, just to give the image better depth,
Finally, to add a bit of mood to the pic, I added a Vignette on top of everything and stuck a layer mask on it then a gradient on the mask to fade it out towards the back of the image,
And after sticking my business logo on the car door (as you do) using Transform – Skew/Warp, here’s the final composition. Like?:
I’ve just had to renew my own Irish passport and found the whole process way more difficult than it should have been. The trickiest bit was to do with the photos you need to include, paying attention to your position in the photo, it’s size, your demeanor, etc…mental! You can probably get one easy in a supermarket photo booth but I wasn’t sure it would conform to the specs and why pay if you can do it yourself!? You’ll get it exactly right and avoid a return/rejection if you use my template file below.
The file below conforms to the dimensions and layout as described in the photo guidelines section of the passport application document, available from your local post office. It will require a copy of Photoshop and some ability to use it of course.
Simply drag/resize a photo of yourself into my template within the guidelines and print actual size on A4 photo quality (glossy) paper.
I was surprised to find out recently that making 3D Anaglyph images, ie – old style Stereoscopic, Red & Cyan as opposed to the modern Polarized type of effect used in the likes of Avatar, was really pretty straightforward and quick.
Get a proper camera, (not phone!) and take 2 images of any object from the same position using the viewfinder. One with each eye,
Import both photos into Photoshop and copy and past the image taken with the right eye into the image taken with the left eye so that they both overlap exactly,
Double click the Right eye layer to open up the Blending Options screen and turn off the Red Color channel under “Advanced Blending” as below:
Select the Left eye layer and use the Move tool to align the image to whichever Focal point you prefer to make that point the focus of attention.
Get hold of some 3D glasses and view the result! Here’s my effort:
Thanks to Johnny Beirne for educating me on some aspects of properly managing both your personal and Business Page Facebook Logos and Thumbnails. Your Facebook Logo/Photo appears top left (in the current Facebook layout!) of either your personal profile or your company page. Facebook also takes a thumbnail portion of this logo to put beside each of your status updates/posts. The logo can be a max of 200px wide by 600px high so it makes sense to use the full size to get as much info in as you can, particularly on your business page. Be aware though that the longer the logo is, the more it will push down the info below it which would normally include your bio info and website links.
The trouble with these logos and thumbnails is that while the logo can be 200 x 600, the thumbnail that Facebook auto crops for you can only be 50 x 50 so the chances of the thumbnail not looking exactly as you’d like it are quite high! This thumbnail is all over Facebook if you post a lot so it might be worthwhile making sure it looks decent. You have a small bit of control over the thumbnail content. Once you’ve uploaded your new logo, hover over it and you’ll see a “Change Picture” link. When you click this you’ll see an “Edit Thumbnail” link that allows you to drag and select the best 50 x 50 portion of your logo for use as your thumbnail.
What Johnny pointed out is that if you purposefully design your logo to take the thumnail into account right from the start you can kind of engineer it to look good as a thumbnail. Johnny suggests designing your logo with a 200 x 200 ‘box’ at the top into which you put your main company logo or symbol, which should be smaller than 200 x 200, ie – with white padding around it, possibly about 150 x 150 or 175 x 175. Now when you upload this logo and click “Edit Thumnail”, you should be easily able to select a nice uniform portion for a thumbnail instead of grabbing a bit of text too, etc..
My own logo isn’t really suited to this as it’s not square so this may not work for everyone. Here’s mine and Johnny’s Facebook pages so you can see how we’ve done things:
Getting photos onto a web page is a common but tricky process. You can’t just take a photograph off a digital camera and upload it or email it to someone because chances are it will be too large and take for ever. Heres a tutorial on how to resize an image both physically and file size wise using the freely available Pixresizer software available from bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm